How to Pick an Emerald Cut Engagement Ring - or - Who is the Mr. Darcy of Diamonds?

Emerald Cut Diamonds are just like Mr. Darcy

So let’s just say that you happen to be browsing diamond shapes and cuts. No reason. Just looking. Eventually you come across an emerald cut diamond. Maybe you instantly fall in love with its clear, cool, water-like shine, its self-possessed elegance, its unexpected simplicity. Or maybe you hate it.

Emerald cuts are a lot like Mr. Darcy from Jane Austen’s popular book Sense and Sensibility. In the beginning of the story Mr. Darcy seems cold, but the more we get to know him, the more we learn to recognize what a beautiful person he is. No matter what your reaction is, know that emerald cuts are unmatched in their ability to divide opinions amongst experts and non-experts alike. If you think emerald cuts look cold and unexciting, look longer.

Us? We are in the adoring-emerald-cuts-forever-camp. Firstly, they have step cut pavilions, meaning that the underside of the stone is faceted in a pattern of horizontal lines. This is different from the “disco-ball” effect that a round brilliant faceting pattern creates, and it makes it much harder to disguise any clarity features within the gem. Peering into an emerald cut is like wearing goggles in a pool - you can see pretty much everything there is to see inclusion-wise. The result is that the most crystal clear rough diamonds are given an emerald cut (usually). Secondly, once you calibrate your eyes to the emerald cut’s magically serene look, you’ll get over the typical sparkle-sparkle you’d see in your everyday brilliant cut diamond. Peer into the depths. Watch the light glide over the smooth facets. Fall down the rabbit hole.

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Emerald Cut Guidance at a Glance:

•  It’s ok to be uptight when it comes to clarity - stick to VS2 and above.
• Symmetry is crucial to an emerald cut. Make sure the symmetry grade on the certificate is “Very Good” or better.

• For a three stone setting, choose slimmer stones with a length to width ratio closer to 1.50. Otherwise, 1.30-1.50 is standard for l:w ratio.

• The high clarity and cut grades that come with emerald cuts can push up the prices a bit compared to other rectangular cuts.
• Consider setting an emerald cut horizontally. It’s rad.
• Bezel settings can look great on an emerald cut - it’s like adding one more facet to the edge!
• Antiqued romance meets modern lines? You can’t go wrong.
  
  

Also check out our board for some other cool setting and design ideas. Use your imagination, and get creative. Sometimes a designer creates a masterpiece by breaking all the supposed rules. Yeah, we’re looking at you Anna Sheffield. If you are interested in an emerald cut sapphire, emerald cut aquamarine, or an actual emerald cut green emerald then feel free to drop us a line - these gemstones can be trickier to navigate than diamonds.

XOXO,
The Birds